Gioco

Chef Danny Sweiss excels at hearty, unfussy pastas like penne with prosciutto and spring peas. Seasonal produce shows up in several salads; we like the combination of baby arugula, fresh pears, candied hazelnuts, pancetta and shaved ricotta tossed in a creamy Italian vinaigrette. The kitchen typically nails classics like the ridiculously huge 40-ounce porterhouse. Go ahead and try to finish it; there’s no need to save room for the skippable desserts.