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The West Loop address that once housed Grace—Chicago’s former three-Michelin-starred temple of tasting menus—is about to fire up its burners again. But instead of classic French technique, the new tenant is bringing sumac, shankleesh and sake to the steakhouse party.
SuSu opens this Friday, February 27, inside the Randolph Street space, introducing what the team calls a “Mediterrasian” approach to beef-focused fine dining. The restaurant blends Lebanese and Assyrian traditions with Mediterranean and Asian influences, aiming to shake up a Chicago genre that can sometimes feel locked into creamed spinach and predictable bearnaise sauce.
Paul Alqas and operational partner Chase Meyer are behind the project (both also involved with Lincoln Park’s Medi) and chef/partner Alexander Willis will lead the kitchen. Willis’ resume includes stops at Hog & Hominy, Dusek’s Board & Beer and Moody Tongue, but here he leans into his Lebanese family roots and time spent living in Asia to reframe what a West Loop steakhouse can look (and taste) like.
Photograph: Courtesy of SuSu That means tabbouleh Caesar salad and potato borek topped with labne and caviar along with prime domestic and international cuts, paired with black sesame bearnaise or teriyaki demi-glace. And it definitely means sides that veer out of their lane, like Wagyu confit marble potatoes with preserved lemon and Middle Eastern shankleesh cheese or hindbeh greens tossed with chickpeas and bacon made from Wagyu beef.
For groups, there’s “Susu’s Table,” a $125-per-person family-style feast that starts with housemade hummus and Lebanese preserves before rolling out four chef-selected butcher’s cuts, sauces and shareable sides. Dessert is both nostalgic and a bit indulgent, with plates like knafeh with apple butter and koji hazelnut ice cream, followed by macarons and bonbons.
In April, the restaurant will debut “Kan Zaman,” an 11-course tasting menu served in a 12-seat private dining room. Here, diners will encounter luxe flourishes like langoustine in a sake croustade, Wagyu short rib shawarma with black apple molasses and a black lime sorbet palate cleanser. Each course will be paired with wines and sakes selected by Willis, a Certified Sake Professional.
The 6,000-square-foot space has been reimagined with hand-carved wood details, mural work by chef-artist Won Kim and a progression from low-lit lounge to marble bar to sultry dining room. On Saturdays, SuSu plans to turn up the volume, channeling the high-energy feel of a Mediterranean night out.
West Loop, consider this your new global steakhouse moment.
Been there, done that? Think again, my friend.
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