Descend the stairway at the very back of Downtown Crossing listening bar Temple Records to discover chef Kenta Katagai’s impossibly cool subterranean sushi den, where you'll be in store for an intimate Japanese dining experience in stylish, dimly lit surroundings. Katagai, a bright, cheerful presence, presides over the 22-seat sushi counter, preparing nigiri and rolls in a style called Edomae, meaning that fish is cured, marinated, or lightly torched to boost flavor and safety. Rolls come already brushed with soy sauce, and a dab of wasabi is placed between the fish and bed of rice. Katagai’s dining room is almost overstaffed, which affords guests the kind of personalized experience you get at much pricier omakase joints. This isn’t omakase, per say, but it feels like it. Waitstaff is eager to walk you through menu items, which range from traditional nigiri to inventive rolls, to help you put together a delicious spread based on your flavor profile.
The vibe: Sleek and sophisticated yet simple. The sushi counter only holds 22 people, so service is intimate and, with a full staff on board to suit customer needs, almost personalized. Traditional Japanese design elements are inspired by Wabi Sabi, a Japanese design philosophy that celebrates the beauty in imperfection.
The food: A true standout on the Boston sushi scene. Rolls, prepared in the style of Edomae, are likely to suit even the staunchest sushi-resistant, with slightly cooked rolls and unique Japanese small plates bursting with freshness and exciting flavor combinations. Highlights on recent visits include the Kinmedai nigiri, with tender goldeneye snapper; the negi toro makimono with fatty tuna and scallion; and any of the sea urchin bites.
The drink: Sushi @ Temple Records maintains an impressive selection of rare Japanese whiskies, beers, and gins, specially curated bubblies, whites, and reds, and notable sake and shochu offerings. Grab what you like, or have your server help you find a beverage that perfectly complements your order — whether it’s a crisp Japanese beer or a surprising red that lifts some of the bold flavors in your rolls and nigiri.
Time Out tip: Would you rather have a cocktail? Diners can order drinks from Temple Records, the bar and listening lounge located upstairs.