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I’m cruising down RM Williams Way when my sister suddenly screams, “Emu!” We’re about two-thirds of the way into our road trip from Adelaide to the Flinders Ranges. “Wow!” I gasp, probably for the 50th time since hitting the highway.
Honestly, how can you blame me? To our right, endless fields are blanketed in bright golden canola, while to our left, rolling green paddocks are dotted with hundreds of fluffy sheep.
Before long, the bitumen gives way to a red dirt track leading straight to our final destination: Arkaba Homestead, easily one of Australia’s most beautiful outback stays. Little do we know, waiting for us at the property are six more emus, plus hundreds of kangaroos, lush fields decorated with vibrant purple flowers and crystal-clear night skies. If this isn’t peak Australia, I don’t know what is.
Earlier this year, South Australia’s Ikara-Flinders Ranges earned a spot in Lonely Planet’s hotlist of the 25 best places to visit in 2026. One of the most accessible – and stylish – ways to experience this ancient 430-kilometre mountain range is at Arkaba. Covering 63,000 acres of sacred Adnyamathanha land, the former 1851 sheep station is now a thriving private wildlife reserve managed by Intrepid Travel, with a historic homestead sleeping up to ten guests.
A scenic 4.5-hour drive from Adelaide, via the world-famous Clare Valley wine region, lands us at Arkaba, where we’re greeted with chilled towels and refreshing lemon myrtle and ginger iced tea. It feels like arriving at an old friend’s country home, where the “reception” is simply a sun-drenched lounge room filled with library books, a fireplace, a communal dining table and a fully stocked South Australian wine rack.
After freshly baked cookies and a tour of the grounds, we’re shown to our room, “Bart.” The charming 1850s homestead retains its original layout, now housing five character-filled ensuite rooms named after early settlers, explorers or property owners. My room overlooks a native kitchen garden and opens onto a sun-drenched verandah framing the ancient mountain ranges. With zero mobile reception, in-room Wi-Fi or TVs, there's nothing left to do but soak up every second of the scenery.
Time in the outback moves slowly, in the best kind of way. Mornings are unrushed – I wake with the sun and warm up with a steamy bowl of apple crumble-inspired porridge, before rolling into my first safari experience (two of which are included daily with every stay). Led by one of Arkaba’s expert guides, we journey along the southern edge of the 63,000-acre property.
Following this year’s heavy rainfall, the usual dry red dirt has transformed into a carpet of green dotted with bright purple wildflowers – a scene that belongs on a postcard. It is a stark contrast to the towering crimson ranges and clear blue skies above.
Along the drive, we spot plenty of native animals, including Australia’s three largest macropods (red kangaroo, western grey kangaroo and common wallaroo) and the country’s largest bird of prey, the wedge-tailed eagle. Thanks to Arkaba’s active conservation programs, endangered species like the yellow-footed rock-wallaby and the western quoll have also returned to the ranges. Restoring biodiversity is at Arkaba’s very heart, with an ongoing mission to return the land to its wild, natural state. Trust me – they don’t just talk the talk, they walk the (bush) walk.
Speaking of walking, while guests are free to explore kilometres of trails snaking around the property, serious hikers can join the guided three-day Arkaba Walk. Recognised as one of the Great Walks of Australia, the multi-day trek winds past the dramatic backdrop of the Elder Range and Wilpena Pound. I hope I can return one day to experience it myself.
Arkaba certainly delivers wild bush luxury, but that luxury goes far beyond the stylish ensuite rooms, Michelin-style meals and all-inclusive safari experiences. Here, true luxury is having 600-million-year-old mountain ranges on your doorstep, wild native animals as your neighbours and fresh outback air to soak up under star-studded night skies.
Driving down the red dirt road one final time, I can’t help but reflect: this is Australia at its absolute best. Having six young emus block the driveway as I try to exit seals the deal. They don’t want me to leave, and that feeling is entirely mutual.
Arkaba Homestead is one of five Australian properties in the newly launched Stay Intrepid collection – a range of hyper-local, experience-led accommodations. From a rainforest ecolodge in the Daintree Rainforest to a rustic station stay just outside Alice Springs, there are plenty more ways to explore our great big backyard. You can find out more here.
NOTE: I was hosted by Stay Intrepid, but our editorial recommendations are always honest.